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Labubu服装被检测出新疆棉,泡泡玛特在美国或面临处罚

ANA SWANSON, SAPNA MAHESHWARI, MEAGHAN TOBIN

Over the past two years, a furry monster with bunny ears and a vicious line of serrated teeth became the subject of a global craze, as shoppers waited hours in line or paid hundreds or thousands of dollars for the most coveted Labubus.

过去两年,一只长着兔耳、锯齿状锋利牙齿的毛茸怪物掀起了一股全球热潮。购物者为了买到最抢手的Labubu,不惜排队数小时,或花费数百乃至数千美元。

The boom turned Pop Mart, the Chinese company that sells Labubus, into a global brand. But a test of the doll — the results of which The New York Times has independently confirmed — showed that clothing on certain Labubu dolls contains cotton from the Xinjiang region of western China, which the U.S. government has banned because of its association with forced labor.

这股热潮让销售Labubu的中国公司泡泡玛特成为全球知名品牌。然而,一项针对Labubu玩偶的检测——其结果已由《纽约时报》独立证实——显示,部分Labubu玩偶的服装含有来自中国西部新疆地区的棉花。美国政府因该地区与强迫劳动存在关联,已禁止进口此类棉花。

For businesses like Pop Mart, selling products that contain cotton banned in the United States could have severe consequences. Companies found in violation of a 2021 law that restricts imports from Xinjiang can be put on a blacklist that bans all their products. The ban does not apply to importers that can prove goods were not made with forced labor.

对于泡泡玛特这样的企业而言,销售含有美国禁运棉花的产品可能面临严重后果。根据2021年的一项法律,如果公司被认定违反限制从新疆进口货物的规定,就可能被列入黑名单,导致其所有产品被禁止进口。该禁令不适用于能够证明货物未使用强迫劳动的进口商。

A spokeswoman for Pop Mart said that it would conduct an investigation into the presence of Xinjiang cotton in its supply chains, and that the company held itself and its suppliers to “the highest standards.” Pop Mart said that only a small percentage of its dolls used cotton for apparel, and that it was working on a plan to use alternative materials, rather than cotton, in its products for the U.S. market.

泡泡玛特的一位发言人表示,公司将对供应链中出现新疆棉的情况进行调查,并称公司对自身及其供应商要求达到“最高标准”。泡泡玛特表示,其玩偶中只有一小部分使用棉花制作服装,公司正在制定计划,在面向美国市场的产品中用其他材料替代棉花。

Nonprofit groups have submitted information about Pop Mart’s use of cotton from Xinjiang and other alleged labor violations at its Chinese factories to officials at U.S. Customs and Border Protection, which would be responsible for enforcing an import ban.

非营利组织已向美国海关与边境保护局提交了关于泡泡玛特使用新疆棉以及其中国工厂涉嫌其他劳工违规的信息,该机构负责执行进口禁令。

The agency did not respond to requests for comment.

美国海关与边境保护局未回应置评请求。

A test of the cotton in a Labubu was commissioned last year by the Campaign for Uyghurs, a Washington-based nonprofit that opposes the persecution of Uyghurs, a mostly Muslim ethnic group concentrated in Xinjiang.

对Labubu玩偶中棉花的检测是去年由总部位于华盛顿的非营利组织“维吾尔运动”(Campaign for Uyghurs)委托进行的。该组织反对针对维吾尔人的迫害,维吾尔人是主要居住在中国新疆的穆斯林少数民族。

That test was conducted in June by Testrigin Technology Center Limited, a product testing facility in Taiwan. Isotopes in cotton vary depending on where it is grown. The Testrigin lab found that samples from a Labubu doll contained cotton grown in Xinjiang.

该检测于6月由台湾的产品检测机构Testrigin Technology Center Limited进行。棉花的同位素特征因产地不同而存在差异。Testrigin实验室发现,来自Labubu玩偶的样本含有新疆种植的棉花。

The Times bought 20 Labubus that were listed as containing cotton late last year from various retailers and had them independently examined to identify the source of the cotton. The people who reviewed the dolls for The Times did not want to be identified because they did not have permission to speak publicly.

《纽约时报》去年年底从多家零售商处购买了20只标称含有棉花的Labubu,并对其进行了独立检测以确定棉花来源。为《纽约时报》进行检测的人员不愿公开身份,因为他们未获得公开发言的许可。

Pieces of clothing from 16 of the 20 dolls were identified as containing cotton from Xinjiang, mainly their T-shirts. The dolls themselves are primarily made of polyester, but the outer part of some of the dolls, including the clothes, are described as containing cotton.

在这20只玩偶中,有16只的服装被鉴定为含有新疆棉,主要为它们的T恤。玩偶本体主要由聚酯纤维制成,但部分玩偶的外层(包括服装)被描述为含有棉花成分。

The dolls that contained Xinjiang cotton were bought from Amazon, eBay, Shein, AliExpress and other retail channels, as well as directly from Pop Mart. They were from the Labubu lines called Fall in the Wild and Flip With Me. While counterfeit Labubu dolls, known as Lafufus, have proliferated online, each of the dolls tested contained a QR code that allowed The Times to verify it as an authentic product.

这些含有新疆棉的玩偶购自亚马逊、eBay、Shein、AliExpress等零售渠道,以及泡泡玛特官网。它们来自名为“Fall in the Wild”和“Flip With Me”的Labubu系列。虽然网上假冒Labubu(俗称Lafufu)泛滥,但每只接受检测的玩偶均含有二维码,《纽约时报》据此验证其为正品。

With the wave of global interest in Labubus, the Chinese government has embraced Pop Mart as an icon of Chinese pop culture. Yet any potential legal violations by such a popular Chinese brand could be a test for the Trump administration, which has been wary of upsetting Chinese leaders before President Trump’s planned visit to Beijing next month.

随着Labubu在全球范围内受到追捧,中国政府已将其视为中国流行文化的标志性符号。然而,这样一个受欢迎的中国品牌若存在潜在违规,将对特朗普政府构成考验——在特朗普计划中的下月访华之前,政府一直谨慎避免激怒中国领导人。

A White House spokesman did not address the test results specifically, but he said the administration was monitoring for legal violations by importers and had initiated a broader investigation into the trade of goods made with forced labor.

白宫发言人未具体回应检测结果,但表示政府正在监控进口商的违法行为,并已启动对使用强迫劳动制造的商品贸易的更广泛调查

Beijing denies any persecution of people in Xinjiang, where more than half the members of the population are part of Muslim ethnic groups. The government describes the programs it carries out in Xinjiang as poverty alleviation, as well as efforts to combat terrorism and separatism.

北京否认在新疆存在任何迫害行为。新疆人口中超过一半属于穆斯林少数民族。中国政府将自己在新疆开展的项目描述为扶贫,以及打击恐怖主义和分裂主义的努力。

2018年,在新疆地区采摘棉花的农民。美国政府以该地区与强迫劳动有关为由,禁止了新疆生产的棉花。 Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

But human rights groups and journalists have documented evidence of forced labor, forced sterilization and heavy surveillance of people who are not Han Chinese, a majority in most parts of China.

但人权组织和记者已记录下针对非汉族人群的强迫劳动强迫绝育以及大规模监控的证据,而汉族是中国大部分地区的主要人口。

In January, experts at the United Nations said they were concerned about a persistent pattern of alleged state-imposed forced labor involving ethnic minorities in China, saying the practice may amount to enslavement and a crime against humanity.

今年1月,联合国专家表示,他们对所谓中国政府针对少数民族实施的持续性强迫劳动模式感到担忧,认为这种做法可能构成奴役和危害人类罪。

In 2021, Congress passed the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, which banned any product made in whole or in part in Xinjiang, unless the importer could prove it was not made with forced labor. The bill’s chief architect was Marco Rubio, a longtime critic of China, who was then a Republican senator and is now secretary of state. He has described the treatment of Uyghurs as genocide.

2021年,美国国会通过了《维吾尔强迫劳动预防法》,禁止进口全部或部分在新疆生产的产品,除非进口商能证明其未使用强迫劳动。该法案的主要起草者是长期批评中国的共和党人马可·鲁比奥,他当时担任参议员,现任美国国务卿。他曾将对维吾尔人的待遇描述为种族灭绝。

The law also established an “entity list” of companies in Xinjiang that use forced labor to mine or manufacture goods. That list has 144 entries, though no new companies have been added since the Biden administration.

该法律还建立了一份“实体清单”,列入新疆使用强迫劳动开采或制造商品的公司。目前该清单有144个条目,但自拜登政府以来尚未新增公司。

Xinjiang produces more than 90 percent of China’s cotton, and about a fifth of the world’s cotton overall. Past investigations by The Times and others found Xinjiang cotton in the supply chains of many major retailers, though fear of penalties has led companies to adopt more rigorous vetting in recent years.

新疆生产的棉花占中国棉花总量的90%以上,占全球棉花总量的约五分之一。《纽约时报》和其他媒体以往的调查发现,许多大型零售商的供应链中都曾出现新疆棉。不过近年来,出于对处罚的担忧,企业已采用更严格的审查措施。

Liu Pengyu, a spokesman for the Chinese Embassy in Washington, said the Uyghur Forced Labor Protection Act was “one of the most notorious and egregious laws in the 21st century,” and “a tool for U.S. politicians to destabilize Xinjiang.”

中国驻华盛顿大使馆发言人刘鹏宇表示,《维吾尔强迫劳动预防法》“堪称21世纪最臭名昭著的恶法之一”,是“美国政客破坏新疆稳定的工具”。

Mr. Liu did not directly address the test results and the possibility that some Labubu products were in violation of the act, but he said China would defend the lawful rights and interests of Chinese companies.

刘鹏宇没有直接回应检测结果以及部分Labubu产品可能违反该法案的可能性,但他表示,中国将维护中国企业的合法权益。

Rushan Abbas, the founder of the Campaign for Uyghurs, said the group’s goal was to have Pop Mart products banned in the United States. Ms. Abbas, who is Uyghur American, works on behalf of the Uyghur population. Her sister disappeared in northwest China almost eight years ago.

“维吾尔运动”创始人鲁珊·阿巴斯表示,该组织的目标是在美国禁止泡泡玛特的产品。代表维吾尔群体发声的阿巴斯是维吾尔裔美国人。她的姐姐近八年前在中国西北地区失踪

The Labubu Boom

Labubu热潮

这些玩偶的粉丝包括网球明星大坂直美这样的名人,她去年在美国网球公开赛上展示了几款Labubu风格的玩偶,引起了热议。
这些玩偶的粉丝包括网球明星大坂直美这样的名人,她去年在美国网球公开赛上展示了几款Labubu风格的玩偶,引起了热议。 Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times

Despite making many of the world’s toys, couches and electronics, China has struggled to create its own coveted consumer brands. So the rising popularity of the ugly-but-cute Labubu — now the focus of a new feature film with Sony — has been a rare triumph for Chinese soft power.

尽管中国制造了世界上的许多玩具、沙发和电子产品,却一直难以打造出备受追捧的本土消费品牌。因此,外形丑萌的Labubu如今人气飙升——目前索尼已为其拍摄一部新的故事片——对中国软实力而言是一次难得的胜利。

The Labubu was created by a Hong Kong-born artist, Kasing Lung, who drew on a childhood fascination with the elves and trolls of Nordic folklore. In 2019, Mr. Lung began collaborating with Pop Mart, which had opened in Beijing as a variety store.

Labubu由出生于香港的艺术家龙家升创作,他从小就对北欧民间传说中的精灵和巨魔着迷。2019年,龙家升开始与泡泡玛特合作,后者当时在北京以杂货店的形式开业。

Pop Mart fueled interest in Labubus by selling the dolls in what are known as blind boxes, a format popular in China where consumers don’t know which doll they have chosen until they open the packaging. A Labubu generally costs $20 to $40 on Pop Mart’s website, though some fetch much more on resale sites.

泡泡玛特通过销售“盲盒”来推动Labubu的热度,这种包装形式在中国很受欢迎,消费者在打开包装前不知道自己会拿到哪一款玩偶。泡泡玛特官网上Labubu的价格一般在20至40美元之间,但在二手转售平台上,有些价格要高得多。

Pop Mart has expanded in the United States through a mix of regular stores and “robo shops,” essentially Labubu vending machines. While most of Pop Mart’s business comes from China, revenue from the Americas rose more than 700 percent last year, accounting for 18 percent of overall sales.

泡泡玛特通过开设实体店和“机器人商店”(本质上是Labubu自动贩卖机)在美国扩张。虽然公司大部分业务仍来自中国,但去年来自美洲的收入增长超过700%,占总销售额的18%。

Fans have included celebrities like Rihanna and Kim Kardashian and the tennis star Naomi Osaka, who made headlines at the U.S. Open last August when she showed off a Labubu-style doll that she named “Billie Jean Bling.”

Labubu的粉丝包括蕾哈娜、金·卡戴珊以及网球明星大坂直美等名人。大坂直美去年8月在美国网球公开赛上展示一款她命名为“Billie Jean Bling”的Labubu风格玩偶,曾引起热议。

But the Labubu boom may have started to fade. Despite its banner 2025, the company’s stock tumbled last month as it faced pressure to find its next hit product. It may face more challenges if its apparent use of Xinjiang cotton provokes a backlash.

然而,Labubu热潮可能已开始消退。尽管2025年业绩亮眼,但由于面临寻找下一款爆款产品的压力,上个月公司股价大幅下跌。如果其明显使用新疆棉的情况引发反弹,公司可能面临更多挑战。

Using information on the doll tags and boxes, The Times tracked the 16 Labubus that had Xinjiang cotton back to three separate factories in southeastern China that were operated by third-party contractors.

《纽约时报》根据玩偶标签和包装上的信息追踪到这16只含有新疆棉的Labubu,它们均来自中国东南部的三家工厂,这些工厂由第三方承包商运营。

One of these factories sits in an industrial park in Jiangxi Province. China Labor Watch, a nonprofit, carried out dozens of interviews last year at the factory, which employs more than 4,000 people. In a report published in January, the group documented what it said were various labor law violations, including a lack of protections for underage workers and people working without proper contracts.

其中一家工厂位于江西省的一个工业园区。非营利组织“中国劳工观察”去年在这家有4000多名工人的工厂进行了数十次面谈。该组织1月发布的报告记录了其所称的多种违反劳动法的行为,包括对未成年工人的保护缺失以及工人无正式合同工作等问题。

The spokeswoman for Pop Mart said it had carried out an independent audit of the factory after the China Labor Watch report.

前述泡泡玛特发言人表示,在“中国劳工观察”报告发布后,公司已对该工厂进行了独立审计。

22dc labubu cotton mpgh jumbo
《纽约时报》委托测试所涉部分Labubu玩偶。 Jared Soares for The New York Times

Several lawmakers who were informed about the test results called for Labubus to be blocked from the United States. Representative John Moolenaar of Michigan, the Republican chairman of the House Select Committee on China, called the situation “unsurprising and unacceptable,” while Representative Ro Khanna of California, the committee’s highest-ranking Democrat, said it was evidence of the Trump administration’s failure to enforce trade laws.

几位获悉检测结果的议员呼吁禁止Labubu进入美国。密歇根州共和党众议员、众议院中国特别委员会主席约翰·穆勒纳尔称这种情况“毫不意外且不可接受”;该委员会的首席民主党人、加州众议员罗·卡纳则表示,这证明特朗普政府未能有效执行贸易法律。

“Pop Mart should prove that all of its dolls in the United States are slave-labor-free,” said Representative Christopher H. Smith of New Jersey, a Republican who is a co-chair for the Congressional-Executive Commission on China. “If they cannot, customs has the authority to stop all Labubu imports, and I will ask them to do so.”

“泡泡玛特应该证明其在美国销售的所有玩偶都不含奴工成分,”新泽西州共和党众议员克里斯托弗·H·史密斯说道,他是国会-行政部门中国委员会的联席主席。“如果他们无法证明,海关有权阻止所有Labubu进口,我将要求他们这样做。”

The Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act has rarely been used against consumer companies, and never for a product as viral as the Labubu, said Adrian Zenz, an expert on Uyghur forced labor.

研究维吾尔强迫劳动问题的专家郑国恩(Adrian Zenz)表示,《维吾尔强迫劳动预防法》很少被用于针对消费品公司,也从未针对像Labubu这样病毒式传播的产品。

Under the law, if an interagency government panel reviews the evidence and finds that a company has violated the act, it can add the company to a sanctions list that would make it illegal to import any of their products. Customs officials can also detain the company’s shipments and demand an accounting of its supply chain, he said.

他指出,根据该法律,如果政府跨部门小组审查证据并认定某公司违法,就可以将其列入制裁名单,从而禁止进口该公司的任何产品。海关官员也可以扣留该公司的货物,并要求其提供供应链说明。

Xinyun Wu自台北对本文有研究贡献。

Ana Swanson报道贸易和国际经济新闻,常驻华盛顿。她从事新闻工作已超过十年。

Sapna Maheshwari报道TikTok、科技和新兴媒体公司。她任职商业记者已超过10年。可以通过电子邮件与她联系:[email protected]

Meaghan Tobin是时报科技记者,常驻台北,报道亚洲地区的商业和科技新闻,重点关注中国。

翻译:纽约时报中文网

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